Monday, May 30, 2005

waiting...

Saturday night was a goodbye party for my 'mate' Neil, a British friend who I have gained a good deal of admiration for as a funny, cynical and good-hearted guy. He came to Niigata to be closer to the koi carp industry (he is a fish biologist), which got nearly completely wiped out in the earthquake. He is leaving JET early to go back home and we went to the beer garden on the top of a hotel in Tokamachi and we ended up causing trouble around town after that. Made me realize I'll have to say goodbye to other friends soon too as their contract expires and mine is extended for another year.

lately I've felt stuck in a kind of waiting-pattern type feeling. Just waiting around for things to happen I guess. Waiting for an air conditioner, waiting to get my Japanese drivers license figured out, waiting to make more Japanese friends, waiting for my trip to Okinawa and Tokyo, waiting for the results of the essay contest I entered, waiting for the heat to hit, waiting for the turnover of the new JETs and saying goodbye to my good friends who are leaving.

Nothing all that exciting has happened lately, just because things have slowed down to normal finally. I guess I got accustomed to really extreme things happening all the time, strange weather, out-of-the-ordinary experiences, earthquakes, new people, and I guess I'm just waiting for something new and strange to happen, and things actually being busy but normal is like the most boring thing in the world. Maybe it means that I'm sort of finally adjusting to life here.

I feel like I'm waiting for a 5th season or something, like I know summer is starting now but I'm expecting some season that I haven't experienced here before, full of things I've never seen or felt before, just like the past 4 seasons here have been. The Japanese are so tied into the seasonal changes and maybe I just find it strange to be entering into a season that is familiar to me, something I've already experienced. Makes me feel like I've been here a long time.

So, I guess I can go out and try to make something unusual happen, or just keep waiting around.

Wednesday, May 25, 2005


My friend Take, who lives in Tochigi now, passed through Tokamachi a couple weeks ago. He is a skier that skied with me and my buddies in Taos for a year. We are at some castle ruins just a short drive about where my house is, overlooking my town, Tokamachi.

Illusion

The rice fields in the big wide river valley near my apartment are in full flood now and I'm able to stare out my window when the sun is sinking over the hills in the west, and catch only the glare of the solid water patches where it used to be land, and feel the brief illusion that I'm actually at my beach house watching the sunset sink over the glittery ocean.

But then some old woman starts walking through the middle of it and the illusion sort of disappears. It's amazing how much detail work goes into the planting, growing and harvesting of rice here. Rice is serious business, especially in this part of the country because good famous rice is really the only 'good' thing Niigata has going for it sometimes. Right now the fields are all flooded about six-inches deep, and every field has old women bent over at the waist hand-planting every single bunch of little pre-grown rice plant stalks in perfect proportion. There must be a thousand in each field, and there are thousands of fields around the area. Now I understand why I see these elderly people walking around town bent over at a complete 90-degree angle at the waist...planting hundreds of thousands of rice bunches and then harvesting and drying them every year have completely morphed the shapes of their bodies.

It's something similar to what the $30 used couch I bought is doing to my back. I've been laying on the floor a lot lately to read, and also on the roof of my apartment building...I'm almost finished with Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. I tried to read it a long time ago but got distracted by one of the other 5 books I was attempting to read at once. I've finally learned how to just read one book, even if it takes a while.

Last night my friend Masahiro called to go to his friend Hiro's bar for a drink. I didn't realize it but it was actually a surprise birthday party for Hiro, so I felt sort of like an intruder and I tried to leave but everybody wanted me there so I stuck around till 2 A.M. talking to some weird businessmen who claim that they not only have a beautiful wife, but also a Brazilian, American and several other girlfriends. I think he was full of it, but it illustrated a pretty common attitude towards marriage over here that sort of promotes a culture of extra-marital affairs (also indicated by the secret love-hotels everywhere so people can carry on their adultery in private). Then he asked me "Why do American girls make big hips after marry? Japanese girls always ok!" I was just like..."uhhh...wha?" People here ask me strange questions.

Tuesday, May 24, 2005

eeeeh

Recently I've been a little homesick and just missing friends and family. Debs and I were talking about this...Japanese people are the friendliest people (when they get over their fear of you sometimes) but due to cultural/language difference it can be a challenge to have them understand who you really are at your core, which is something I miss about people back home, and it's hard to get to know them too because you aren't immediately part of the 'in-circle'. Usually people here aren't interested in becoming your friend and relying on you for friend-like qualities, but rather for satisfying their curiosity in you as a foreigner. I am making good friends here but I just miss home sometimes!

Recently, what else...I was up till 6 am on both Friday and Saturday nights doing this and that young-people type things with Nate, Hiro, Masahiro (my friend who owns a yakiniku restaurant), some random Austrian guy who was in town and some other locals. I'm busy at the start of this week. I've already taught 9 classes over two days with 2 private lessons on the side. At the end of this week I'm doing a special 'international understanding' class by teaching Spanish to about 60 of my kids at Nanchu Junior High. I'll also show them a couple Mexican culture things like some song and dance maybe. I'll also soon repeat the burrito experiment that I did at the same school in January...I might ask someone to ship me some pinto beans! The soy beans didn't work so well.

Otherwise my classes today went well even though I'm wiped out...I am working with some student teachers to show them how to work with an ALT (wish I could do the same for some of the actual teachers I work with). Also, just starting to look forward to my Tokyo conference / Okinawa trip!

Thursday, May 19, 2005


The girls at Mizusawa learning how to wear yukata (summer kimono). It's a pretty complicated business.


Tokamachi Culture Day at Mizusawa JHS. I learned how to make soba which is the local 'proud noodle'. Below me is the soba master. Some of the girls learned how to wear local summer kimono.

Wednesday, May 18, 2005

What a weird weekend

So, I officially lost my very first drinking 'battle' to a Japanese person, after being undefeated several times. It's not like I do this sort of thing often at all, or that I think social drinking is a competition, I went out for just one drink on Saturday and ended up out till 6 A.M. I lost in a bad way, and my head STILL hurts 4 days later, but I made some new friends that I had seen around at Nate's bar for a while but was too shy to befriend. It was some guy's birthday, and he won. I'm happy for him. I have a slight suspicion that they were just trying to innebriate me to see the foreigner do funny things, which I did...apparently.

I'm going to the travel agency today to buy a ticket to Okinawa next month to see my aunt and uncle for cousin Mia's graduation. I'll only get to go for 3 days or so but I think I got a great deal. Normally, domestic travel in Japan is more expensive than flying overseas (from my apartment to Okinawa would normally be maybe $600 or $700). I think I hooked this up for $300 plus a hotel room in the city for a night. We'll see if there are actually tickets left.

Other news...I will be the Regional Advisor for all the new ALT's coming into my area next year. Also, there is a big conference coming up in Tokyo next month which should be fun to get back into the city. Yay.

Friday, May 13, 2005

WWJD

Today during cleaning time I saw a tiny little second year student wearing two neon WWJD bracelets, popular with the more Christian population of America's youth.

Our conversation went like this (mostly in Japanese):

I said "Hey, are you Christian too?" (there are two Catholic students at Minami JHS).
"No," she replied.
"Oh, do you know what those bracelets are?" I asked.
"Cool accessories!" she said.
"I see. Do you know what WWJD stands for?" I said.
"No."
"OK. Jesus was a person. Do you know who Jesus is?"
"No."
"Ah. Christian people believe in Jesus. WWJD is 'What Would Jesus Do.' " I explained.
"Oh. Is that his full name?" she asked.
"Never mind. Where did you buy those?"
"In the sports store!" she said.
"Cool. That's funny. I like the bright green one" I said.
"Oh, thanks! Bye!"

Soon after that, another student came up to me. "How are you?" I asked in English.
His response was, "I like sushi! Bye!"

This is why I love my students.

Wednesday, May 11, 2005

The omiyage dance

Today was a crisp and cold one, at Nakajo Junior High. I had to teach how to say family members and some other things to some 2nd years...MOTHER...FATHER...BABY...COUSIN, etc. Also, I began the tricky 'omiyage' ritual of giving out mandatory souvenirs since I took a day off from Nakajo last week to go south, and I 'inconvenienced' the office by being so cocky as to actually use my allotted vacation time (most Japanese workers don't use a lot of their vacation time). Problem is I miscalculated for the 80 or so teachers I work with at my three junior highs, and don't have enough snacks and postcards for everyone. So I'm having to sneak about and only give it only to those that are nice to me, or important (like the principal and the lunchlady), or excessively attractive, and skipping those who ignore me or who don't see me giving out the omiyage. In theory everyone is supposed to get one but...oops!

Tuesday, May 10, 2005

Back to reality again...

So Golden Week is overwith. It was a good trip...the main activity was basically enjoying city life in Nagoya with my friend Marco (from college) and some of his friends (most of whom are Lewis & Clark graduates). At least 4 nights out of the 6 that I was there we saw the sunrise and ended up sleeping into afternoon, which limited our daytime activities. But it was fun and it was cool to see an old friend.

I took a train straight from my apartment down through Nagano and got there Friday night. Immediately we found a taco stand and ate some good Japanese tacos (I ate very little Japanese food on this trip. Mostly tacos). The next couple days were relaxing and walking around the city, taking in some shopping and city stuff, different bars (Gaijin bars and izakaya bars). After a few days we decided to check out the World Expo 2005 which was just outside of town. I figured I couldn't miss it even if I had slept through the whole morning and wouldn't see much, but it was worth it. There were tons of international pavilions and we talked to some interesting people from places like Iran, Libya, Sri Lanka, Bhutan, etc. I played with a lot of robots and ate some good Mexican food at the Mexican Pavilion.

The next couple days were still spent lounging around the city. It is such a different experience down in such a metropolis...he lives on a subway line and you can get anywhere cheaply up until midnight or so. We took in a session at an Oxygen Bar, an English book section at the bookstore, shopping, and just being crazy at night. We usually met up with Gavin, Gavin's girl (name?), a Korean guy, and a few other people here and there.

Finally we decided to get out to Kyoto for a day even though we got there in the afternoon. We hopped on the bullet train and went straight to Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) which is like the most famous place for Japanese people to go in Japan other than Mt. Fuji probably. It's a golden temple in the middle of a beautiful lake and surrounded by forest. Down the road we went to Ryoan-ji temple which I had studied in college because of its Zen gardens. That pretty much took up most of the afternoon because we got lost a little, and then settled on a cool part of town (Gion district?) where there were tons of beautiful little side alleys, each loaded with traditional architecture and restaurants, etc. We relaxed by the river and met up with Aya, the other Gavin, John, a couple more Japanese people (every one of these people went to Lewis & Clark). We had planned on heading back to Nagoya that night but missed the last train so we decided to stay up all night and enjoy Kyoto because it was just so nice to walk around and be in. So we stayed up and caught the 8 A.M. train back to Nagoya and were in bed maybe by 10 A.M.

That day we went to Nagoya castle for a little barbecue and took in the Fuji Flower bloom and I checked out the castle for a bit. Apparently I saw the very famous "Golden Dolphins" that are normally on top of the castle but they were down for display. Didn't mean a whole lot to me but I guess I was lucky to see them?

The whole castle was demolished in ww2 but a lot of the walls were original and it was pretty interesting, my first time in a big castle here. Nagoya is basically built around it but the whole of Nagoya was also demolished in the war which is why it has such a spread-out feeling...it was just rebuilt in a big flat grid pattern so there isn't really any central interesting area but mostly just the same buildings and neon for miles. But it was so great to see new stuff, and to just be in a lively city with young people everywhere. That was the most satisfying part of the trip, just to be with young people who want to have a good rowdy time and nothing much more.

About an hour after I returned to Tokamachi, my Japanese friend Take who I skied with in Taos for a year was driving through Niigata on his way back to Tochigi and stayed with me for two nights. I showed him around town and we ate some good food and had a couple nights on the town.

So, all in all it was 9 straight days and nights of heavy socializing, but all with good old friends which was really satisfying. Almost relieved to be back in my apartment to have some quiet time but definitely became accustomed to the constant lively company.

I'm back at work now and I'm enjoying it but I was slammed into it for sure. Over two days I've already had 10 lessons plus 2 private lessons, and I had to wake up at 6 am to help take down the snow barriers around our garage. By the time i got down there they were mostly finished and there was no need for more than one or two people really. But because it's Japan, EVERYBODY has to participate or show their face regardless of whether or not it's necessary. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me but I was mostly just put off by the time of day that they decided to do this work that I could do by myself in 10 minutes.

It's still cold and I still have to put on the kerosene heaters in my apartment...which you have to ventilate too...I occasionally pass out (can't tell if it's from the fumes or just exhaustion) but luckily the safety timer turns them off every three hours. There are more bugs in my apartment already though and I'm wondering if they are coming in via a new earthquake crack I found in my wall where the support collumns and walls were seperated a couple cm from each other, leaving a big gap! i'll have to figure out how to fill that in and keep the spiders out!

Saturday, May 07, 2005


At Nagoya Castle


Gavin and Marco in the streets of Nagoya


Marco sucking some sweet air at the oxygen bar


Me and Miki walking through the blooming Fuji Flowers at Nagoya Castle


Enjoying some late-night riverside relaxation in Kyoto


Me walking through the billions of beautiful pedestrian-only sidestreets in Kyoto


At Ryoan-ji temple


The crowds getting all Zen-like at the Ryoan-ji zen rock garden.


At Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), a very famous site in Kyoto, and pretty beautiful as well.


With one of the futuristic robot displays, accompanied by the green snot monsters that are the mascots for the Expo 2005


The new super high speed bullet magnet train that will come out eventually


Pics from my recent trip